That said, the uncompromising nature of the Rubicon might mean that it won't do what you specifically need it to do. In some situations the lower gears in the T-case and axles can be limiting, the factory tires are specially designed for NVH compliance with skinnier and shorter tread blocks, and the factory lockers can have their own shortcomings too. So, what is right for you-the Rubicon or non-Rubicon?
That is really a question only you can answer, but here is how our esteemed editors approached the question. Sure, the beefier T-case would have been nice, but realistically she didn't need to spend the extra money for the lower gears she didn't really need.
Besides, if we were ever to lift it, we would have just needed new carriers to regear it anyway, and the factory lockers would have had to go away. Today, the gear companies have stepped in with thicker ring gears for the 4. It is one of those if I knew then what I know now kind of things.
To complicate matters, at the time she was shopping for a Jeep she wanted 35s, but by the time we had it up on 33s, she was happy with both looks and off-road performance. She didn't get a Rubicon, and now we both wish she had. What it comes down to is if you plan on running inch tires or smaller, the 4.
But then, the in the T-case is really only useful if you are wheeling heavy rocks. For sand and regular trail runs the is just too low and is usually too high, leaving you high and dry with no decent solution.
Then let's talk axles. The Dana 44s are really more like Dana 39s. The front axle shares more parts with a Dana 30 than a Dana 44, and the TJ rear axle will bend into a smiley face with just a little abuse.
Extended warranties can be a good deal if you don't want to pay for repair costs after the manufacturer's warranty runs out, but these could be a profit center for the dealer as well. Dealer-installed options also typically have a higher profit margin.
On the other hand, not every dealer is an intrinsically evil organization designed to fleece you. You'll recognize the high-pressure dealerships versus the low-pressure dealerships, and you'll recognize dealers that say, "What would it take for me to put you into this car today?
Shop around. This is another question that isn't specific to Wranglers. If you buy a new vehicle, you'll get the manufacturer's warranty and a relative assurance that you won't have problems -- or that the problems will be covered under warranty.
I say "relative" because once in a while, someone buys a Wrangler that has a number of problems, and I get e-mail about it. Buying a used Wrangler can be cheaper, but it has a number of unknown factors. You might be buying a Wrangler that someone traded in because they had kids and needed a Grand Cherokee for the extra room. Or, you might be buying a Wrangler from an owner who got frustrated with having to make too many repairs.
You should have a full mechanical inspection, or at least do your own inspection. Note: What else can I add here that's specific to Wranglers? Snarf some results from forums and stuff for this. Moses Ludel's Jeep Owner's Bible suggests paying particular attention to the frame and chassis, driveline components and axles, the clutch, and body mountings. I'm often asked what problems are common to used Wranglers. I'm unable to give a comprehensive or complete list because it depends on the individual history of the vehicle, how it was used, how it was maintained, and manufacturing defects or problems that occurred within a particular model year and vehicle style combination.
For more information, see section 4 of this FAQ. Note: Again, what else can I add here that's specific to Wranglers? Or are the results so variable that I just can't come up with a really good answer? If you are looking for a new Wrangler, the Wrangler section of the Jeep. It's a pretty neat tool, and you can use it without worrying about having to talk to a salesperson. Jeep launched it with the model year and wrapped it up with the model. The fastest way to tell it apart from the other Jeeps is to look for the square headlights.
In , the YJ introduced an important change with fuel injection, boosting fuel efficiency and reliability. The TJ reworked the off-roader once more, introducing a number of key changes. Coil springs were also added to the vehicle, departing from the fat spring suspension on the YJ, greatly improving the ride quality.
In other words, for overall comfort both on the road and even on trails, the TJ is superior. The TJ also offers more flex, making it a better option for rock crawling, while the YJ is more likely to be caught with at least one tire in the air. This raises a question in my mind. I have been fully focused on getting a Rubi and have passed up tons of Sport and X models. Should I reconsider an X or Sport and use it as the platform to upgrade. Up until now, I wasn't planning on messing with axles, lockers, transfer cases, gears, etc.
So I have two questions. Whats the big difference between the Sport and the X? How much effort to make the Sport or X have more of the performance characteristics of a Rubi or close enough for some modest off roading? Drippy TJ Enthusiast. Get the rubicon. Reactions: Xposure , SkylinesSuck and Mikester Are you really going to do trails where a locker is needed? If you will be doing trails where lockers are needed are you going to be wanting to eventually get to huge tires that are larger than 35"?
If so a Rubicon would be a waste since its axles can't be built to handle anything reliably larger than 35". Have you done trails tough enough for lockers yet? Is it something you really enjoyed and want to get into?
What size tires are required for those trails? Last edited: Apr 16, Igoo65 TJ Enthusiast. If I new then , what I know now! I would have bought a Rubicon instead of a sport.
Just for the transfer case. If you are going to do any kind of rock crawling, you will want the NVOR. Reactions: Xposure. I bought my first TJ last February, it's a Rubicon. I've gotten fairly active into offroading and have really seen the benefits. If you can find a clean Rubicon, I recommend you go that route if you plan to use it off-road. It will save you money on differential work assuming you don't go crazy on the build. Reactions: MaloStapalo.
Adding to what Jerry Bransford is saying.
0コメント